Saturday, May 16, 2026
海南西餐:在消失的饮食记忆 海南西餐馆在守旧与创新之间找出路
本地海南西餐馆曾定义无数人的“西餐初体验”,然而,随着时代更迭与餐饮业态不断演变,这类餐馆如今已剩不足十家。面对“守传统”与“求创新”的两难,业者既要用美食留住熟客,也须经营品牌形象,吸引年轻食客。
美芝路太子咖啡座走过近半个世纪,88岁老板林道柏2026年3月宣布7月退休,若无人承接,这家老店将画上句点。几乎同一时间,马来西亚老字号海南西餐馆The Ship也在4月初宣布,关闭槟城与吉隆坡各一家店面,全马只剩四家门店。
在新马由海南人经营的西餐馆,不只是许多人第一次接触西餐的地方,更凝聚独特社会与文化记忆。只是,当多元餐饮选择不断涌现,这种饮食形态似乎正悄然步入黄昏。
从洋人厨房走向大众
19世纪末至20世纪初,大批海南人南来谋生。他们比其他籍贯群体起步晚,许多行业已被占据,只能进入洋人家庭当帮佣。海南先辈在调整口味与选材过程中融入华人饮食元素,逐渐发展出“本地化”西餐。
本地最早由海南人经营的西餐馆,可追溯至1925或1926年,黄令琼号召亲友在巴米士街(Purvis Street,俗称“海南二街”)合股开设的海珍高级西餐馆(Hai Chin)。它是莱佛士酒店之外第二家获颁酒牌的西餐馆,前者主要服务洋人,后者则成为本地华人上流社会聚集场所。后来黄令琼与股东理念不合,1935年在同一条街开设美珍餐楼酒吧(Mooi Cain)。
20世纪六七十年代随着英军撤离,原本在洋人家庭任职的海南人另谋出路。其中一批擅长西式料理的厨师自立门户,带动本地海南西餐馆兴起。与早期纯西餐馆相比,海南西餐馆不太拘泥于正式餐桌礼仪,有每日固定午间套餐,价格更为亲民,适合家庭和日常消费。
然而,随着时代更迭与餐饮业态不断演变,如今本地海南西餐馆已不足十家。
西餐料理融入本土元素
在梳理本地仍可找到的海南西餐馆时,首先要厘清如何定义“海南西餐”。简单直接注解,是由海南人创办或经营,并在西餐料理中保留本土元素。
不难留意到的另一特色,是多数海南西餐馆仍延续早期英伦气息,如格子桌布、木质陈设和复古灯饰。另一方面,不少海南先辈曾在远洋船只担任厨师,餐馆装潢融入航海元素。

- 太子咖啡座(Prince Coffee House)
它是1977年邵氏大厦开业的首批租户,曾吸引不少明星光顾,如林青霞与刘文正。餐馆后来迁至武吉知马路加冕购物中心22年,2011年落户美芝路至今,仍保留大量使用数十年的老物件,像是桌垫与餐具。

88岁的老板林道栢与多位老员工将于2026年7月退休,仍在等待有缘人接手店面。目前餐馆进入清货倒数阶段,原料逐渐短缺。老板不希望有过多媒体曝光,以免食客失望而归。然而,这篇报道若少了它,始终欠一角, 只好跟老板说声“对不起”。
▲地址:249 Beach Rd #01-249 S189757

- The Ship Restaurant
马国1972年由两兄弟和股东合资的The Ship,宣布关闭两家门店。不少食客提出疑问:新加坡同名餐馆会否受影响?新加坡The Ship第二代告诉《联合早报》,两者没有关系,如常开业。餐馆1979年由海南人王禄值在市区罗敏申路创办,1990年代高峰期有多达六家店面,现存唯一一家开在乌节邵氏中心三楼,由第二和第三代经营。
▲地址:1 Scotts Rd #03-16/17/18 Shaw Centre S228208
- Jack’s Place
1966年由英国人Jack Hunt在基里尼路开设的酒吧,1968年海南厨师史立谐加入,后来全面接手。餐馆2026年迈入60周年,传至第三代。虽然已不售卖猪扒,但菜单上仍可见一些海南风味,如炖牛肉、炖羊腿、参峇炒饭和鸡尾酒水果派。
▲网址:www.jacksplace.com.sg

- Mariners’ Corner
曾在Jack’s Place工作的史氏亲人,1984年在广东民路航运大厦(Maritime House)开设Mariners’ Corner,2021年迁至金文泰斜阳大道。餐馆装潢与The Ship同样走海事风格,以格子桌布、木色调与船只操舵轮等元素,勾起浓浓老式情怀。
▲地址:Block 106 Clementi St12 #01-40 S120106

- Shashlik
主打俄罗斯料理的Troika餐馆关闭后,九名海南员工1986年开了Shashlik,继续售卖俄菜和海南风味西餐。主要召集人陈业芹2013年逝世,两名儿子接手。餐馆装潢与餐桌布置更为高级,服务员穿着简约背心式制服,上菜时推着餐车。
▲地址:545 Orchard Rd #06-19 Far East Shopping Centre S238882
- Jacob’s cafe
2009年开在樟宜村的Jacob’s cafe,是少数在东部的海南西餐馆。老板从加拿大回流,母亲曾在英军厨房工作,餐馆菜单上有炖牛尾、炖羊腿、羊肉煲、德国猪脚、海南卤猪脚、各式肉扒和和鸡肉派等中西合璧菜肴。
▲地址:Blk5 Changi Village Rd #01-2049 S500005

- British Hainan
British Hainan是2013年加入的后起之秀。创办人潘得立的父亲20世纪四五十年代时帮英国人打工,后来到船上当厨师。潘得立退休后勇闯饮食界,复刻父亲的独特炖牛尾及其他海南料理。餐馆一度扩充至三家,现专注加冷大道工业区门店,各角落摆设具怀念价值古物。
▲地址:158 Kallang Way #01-06A S349245
以人情味留住食客
Silver Spoon、Copper Kettle、The Wagon Wheel、The Borshch、Berkely和The Sails等,都是已走入历史的海南西餐馆。British Hainan创办人潘得立说:“最早一批西餐馆兴起后,一些海南厨师到小贩中心创业,人们有了更平价的选择。加上几次经济不景,影响到西餐馆生计。”
经过数轮市场洗牌,现存海南西餐馆多数是独立经营店面,服务一群多年支持的熟客。如今它们面对市场竞争激烈、经营成本高等挑战,更关键的是原有料理越来越难贴近新一代消费者。

业主试着在“守传统”与“求创新”之间取平衡。Mariners’ Corner第二代史君保不久前接受媒体访问时提及,坚持原有路线让餐馆40年来客流量保持稳定。更改菜单就不再忠于传统,所以餐馆只调整配菜,增加凉拌、奶油和清炒选项。Shashlik第二代陈忠基是厨师,为海南猪扒搭配炸鸡饭球,在午餐套餐推出。
海南西餐馆要走得长远,重点已不再只是食物。潘得立说:“门面装潢要下足功夫打造记忆点,店家也要多和顾客交流,以人情味留住食客。同时,要经营品牌形象与社交媒体,吸引年轻一代。”
现在从高档餐馆、邻里小馆到小贩中心,都可尝到海南西餐,海南西餐馆难免受到威胁。但换个角度看,这其实说明海南西餐早已像鸡饭一样,突破社群与店号界限,在新加坡遍地开花,而不是逐渐消失。
海南厨师改写本地西餐味觉版图
从中国南来的海南厨师,以中式烹调手法结合本地食材,为新马西餐的发展轨迹留下哪些独特印记?
一家西餐馆是否有“海南基因”,最直接的判断是菜单是否有海南猪扒。海南厨师将洋人厨房的饼干碎或白面包晒干搅成屑,裹在猪扒表层再炸。
1960年代起,厨师将原本的法式酱汁改为当时流行的酸甜酱汁。早期马铃薯丁、红萝卜丁和青豆,与酱汁一起煮熟后,直接淋在猪扒上,后来讲究摆盘,马铃薯切成块或炸成条,铺在底层或摆在旁边。太子咖啡座海南猪扒($18)就保持十年如一日的传统呈现方式。
牛排价位高,炖牛尾早期成功掳获本地食客芳心。这道料理传统上以洋葱、面粉、大蒜、香菜、胡椒粉等炖煮,以红酒提香。来到海南厨师手里,会加入八角、桂皮、丁香、老抽,甚至是中药材,味道偏向甘甜湿润,而且炖至接近脱骨,肉筋软糯。
British Hainan的炖牛尾有故事。创办人潘得立的父亲当年给英国人打工时,雇主爱吃炖牛尾但有糖尿病,父亲突发奇想,以番薯天然甜味取代白糖。这道料理需要十多个小时完成,因此大多数海南西餐馆一周只推出一两天,British Hainan是少数天天供应。海南人擅长炖和焖的烹饪手法,因此海南西餐馆也有炖羊小腿。
海南西餐馆菜单还有一大特色,就是会有中餐和米饭选项。The Ship有海南猪扒配白米饭($20.90),和午餐套餐供应的炸鱼块米粉汤($13.90包括汤、饮料和甜点)。Mariners’ Corner的平日午间套餐有海南牛肉河粉汤($14.80包括甜点及咖啡茶)。Jack’s Place有炸鸡炒饭配参峇酱($15.30)及炖牛汤配白饭($20.30)。太子咖啡座甚至有完整中式菜单,如牛肉粿条、猪扒饭、酸甜鱼片、三鲜苦瓜汤。


很多新马食客对西餐的最初印象,是在铁板上滋滋作响的牛扒。海南西餐馆并非铁板牛扒发明者,却是新马“铁板牛扒文化”重要推手。如今许多西餐馆,甚至售卖西餐的小贩,都用铁板呈献牛扒。
海南西餐馆还供应重度烘焙、带焦糖与烟熏感的南洋咖啡,并附上淡奶,与一般西餐馆很不同。套餐甜点是小块蛋糕或装在鸡尾酒杯的水果。

Friday, May 15, 2026
China factor spices up tussle over key part of the Indian Ocean

Protesters outside London’s High Court, where Chagossian campaigners are challenging the British government's deal to transfer sovereignty of the Chagos Islands to Mauritius, on Oct 28, 2025. The government has put the handover of sovereignty over the islands and a key military base on hold.PHOTO: REUTERS
China factor spices up tussle over key part of the Indian Ocean
US military airbase of Diego Garcia gets dragged into powerplay.
Ravi Velloor
Senior Columnist
With the world’s eyes fixed on the war on Iran since February, and latterly, US President Donald Trump’s trip to meet his Chinese counterpart Xi Jinping in Beijing, it is no surprise that significant recent developments in an area in the south-west Indian Ocean that is as important to the US as is Guam in the Pacific, have passed largely under the radar.
The latest was the omission from the King’s Speech delivered to the British Parliament on May 13 of any reference to the planned British handover to Mauritius of sovereignty over the strategic Diego Garcia military base and the surrounding islands in the Chagos archipelago. The speech typically lays out the government’s legislative agenda and the lack of mention of the Chagos issue is the clearest indication that the long-negotiated handover has been shelved.
This follows from Britain’s refusal in January – as Mr Trump and Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu planned the war on Iran – to allow strikes to be conducted from Diego Garcia, which the US operates under lease from Britain. It prompted Mr Trump to attack Britain’s plans to hand over sovereignty as a sellout.
A permanent US military airbase supporting air and naval activity, Diego Garcia acts as a key launchpad to project power into the Middle East, South-east Asia and East Africa.
New twists have emerged since Britain declined permission for the initial strikes. Mauritius announced in late February that it was “suspending” diplomatic relations with the Maldives, its neighbour to the north. This came after the Maldives, led by Mr Mohammed Muizzu – who came to office in 2023 as a China-leaning figure standing on an “India Out” plank – reversed the previous government’s position and asserted its historical claims to the ownership of Chagos Archipelago.
Was Mr Muizzu acting alone, or, as China sceptics tend to believe, also on behalf of Beijing – which has in recent years sought to expand its influence in the Indian Ocean and has built up an impressive navy that makes it possible?
At April’s Ninth Indian Ocean Conference held in Port Louis, capital of Mauritius, the Maldives was not invited. And Mr Muizzu slammed Mauritius’ behaviour as “nonsensical, very immature and naive”.
In the middle of it all a small group of Chagossians led by a man named Louis Misley Mandarin – you read that right – landed on a Chagos island in mid-February, saying they intended to settle on the land their forefathers had been evicted from.
Turns out that Mr Mandarin, who refers to himself as First Minister in the Chagossian Government-in-Exile, is a former British army cook and bus-driving instructor who is backed by Mr Nigel Farage’s Reform UK, which opposes the Chagos handover to Mauritius.
About-turn on handover
Now, the long negotiated handover – blessed by Washington until Mr Trump reversed positions in January – is itself in question.
As the omission in the King’s Speech indicates, the British government, which shifted positions on Iran in April to allow the US to conduct “defensive operations” from Diego Garcia, has put the handover in a freeze.
As they say in Singapore’s coffee shops, how like dat?
To figure out that puzzle one needs to absorb some background. When Mauritius gained independence from Britain in 1968, the Chagos islands were detached and were afterwards known as British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT). Two years earlier, Britain had leased Diego Garcia island to the US and the island has since been a key military outpost for US forces in the Indian Ocean, housing B-52 bombers and refuelling facilities, among other assets.
In the overall scheme of American global power projection, Diego Garcia in the Indian Ocean would be as important as Guam in the Pacific. For the Anglo-American alliance, it replaced RAF Gan, a secret air and naval facility that the British operated during World War II from Addu atoll in the southern Maldives.
Mauritius has consistently fought to get the Chagos islands back.
In 2015, its attempt to use the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea in response to Britain declaring a Marine Protected Area around the archipelago did not succeed. But four years later, a referral to the UN General Assembly (UNGA), which asked the International Court of Justice (ICJ) for an advisory opinion, gained more traction.
The UNGA framed the issue in a decolonisation context.
A direct implication of the ICJ ruling that followed in 2019 was that Mauritius could exercise sovereign control over the archipelago. Although Britain resisted the advisory opinion – and pointed out that it was non-binding – UNGA subsequently adopted a resolution welcoming the ICJ ruling. The vote was carried with 116 voting for the resolution, six against (including the US, Australia and Israel), and 56 abstentions.
It is at this point that the Biden administration seems to have weighed in with the suggestion that it was increasingly untenable for Britain to hold on to Chagos, and suggested it was time to look for innovative solutions.
The China factor
India, which has outsized influence in Mauritius mainly because seven in 10 of its people are of Indian ethnicity and predominantly Hindu, was also consulted. New Delhi appears to have endorsed Washington’s position. In internal discussions it also backed the US view that handing Chagos back to Mauritius would help add pressure on China regarding its maritime claims in East Asian waters.
Thus pressured, in 2022, Britain entered into negotiations with Mauritius, with the precondition that the Diego Garcia base would be retained by the US for the next 99 years. The Rishi Sunak government had all but wrapped up negotiations when fresh elections were called, and the government changed. The new government has merely completed formalities.
The deal on Diego Garcia guarantees Western security interests in the archipelago are undisturbed for a century. In May 2023, US Deputy Secretary of State Richard Verma visited Port Louis – the highest-ranking American diplomat to visit the country in 20 years – for an on-ground review, alongside officiating at a ground-breaking for a new US$301 million (S$383 million) US embassy building there.
Thus, the deal on Chagos is a four-way arrangement between Mauritius, Britain, US and India. The latter has increasingly turned into a net security provider in the western Indian Ocean, even as it rows a far slower oar in East Asia, where it is reluctant to be seen participating in security instruments that confront China directly.
Maldives inserting itself into the picture is the new complication. But in this, too, there are multiple nuances.
Ordinarily, President Muizzu’s claims on Chagos should have prompted diplomatic worry lines in New Delhi and Washington. It would have raised speculation that against a backdrop of waning American influence and the dip in bilateral ties between the Trump White House and India, he was again stepping up to do Beijing’s bidding in a vital corner of the globe.
Aside from the American base in Diego Garcia, China also keeps a watchful eye on Mauritius, particularly its deepening defence ties with India, exemplified in a new airstrip and jetty that the two nations jointly inaugurated on Agalega Island.
The facility operates front-line Indian maritime reconnaissance aircraft, including the P-81. Agalega joins the French Reunion Island to the south-west that consolidates the dominance of US-friendly forces in that part of the Indian Ocean.
While there is curiosity over Mr Muizzu’s positions, neither New Delhi nor Washington appear to be ready to call him out. Quiet diplomacy seems to be the approach India is taking. It could also be that both are preoccupied with their individual issues – the war going badly for Mr Trump and for Mr Modi, worries over the economy brought about by the fuel crisis.
Also, compulsions of geography and New Delhi’s diplomatic overtures have led Mr Muizzu to take a more centrist foreign policy line. India’s willingness to take sides is therefore on account of wanting to keep both Mauritius and Maldives in its corner.
Besides, a key reason it had backed a swift sovereignty handover is now moot. India was hoping that the British announcement, which came in October 2024, would bolster the electoral prospects of then PM Pravind Jugnauth, a close ally. However, the election held the following month saw Mr Jugnauth ejected by a landslide.
What now? The six-decades-long Chagossian wait to reoccupy their land seems likely to be extended a while longer. Mauritius will also need to wait to regain sovereignty over the island.
The already agreed long lease of Diego Garcia to the US is undisturbed in any circumstance, which effectively means little changes on the ground. Needless to say, the geopolitical fun and games will likely continue.
velloor@sph.com.sg
AI: Who Pays When AI Makes a Mistake?
AI犯了错 - 谁来买单?
Thursday, May 14, 2026
新加坡经济策略报告出炉:从三主轴强化竞争韧性 打造AI方案领导地位2026-05-14
在竞争日益激烈的世界里,仅靠高效稳定和良好运行已然不足。新加坡为下一阶段经济发展制定方向,将通过强化自身价值定位、提高企业和员工应变能力,以及构建经济韧性,确保新加坡保持竞争力。
围绕三主轴 针对八个发展方向提32项建议
经过九个月的咨询与讨论,我国经济策略检讨委员会向政府提呈了建议报告,并于星期三(5月13日)发布报告摘要。报告围绕上述三个主轴,针对八个发展方向提出32项建议,包括如何更好地扶持职业转型和支持员工,及提升能源韧性等。
完整报告将于近期公布。
黄循财总理同天傍晚在社媒贴文,表明政府支持经济策略检讨总体策略和方向,并说:“前方的任务是把这些方向,转化为具体行动。”
领导新加坡经济韧性工作小组的副总理兼贸工部长颜金勇星期三在未来经济论坛上指出,经济策略检讨不仅是对当前挑战的回应,也关乎新加坡如何在长远规划中定位自身,以保持竞争力、创造优质就业机会,在瞬息万变的世界中与时俱进。
颜金勇说:“对新加坡而言,仅靠高效、稳定和良好运行已不再足够。这些依然是我们的核心优势。但在竞争日益激烈的世界中,我们必须更进一步。”
新加坡须精准下注 不能固守安全选项
颜金勇指出,全球地缘政治紧张、人工智能(AI)迅速崛起、气候变化加剧。这些因素带来了结构改变,而非短暂挑战。
要应对这些结构变化,我国首先须强化自身价值定位,在先进制造、金融、物流、科技等核心领域深化优势,吸引高价值投资,并把AI广泛应用于整体经济,提升生产力、创造更好的就业机会。
他以AI为例说:“我们不能只维护今天的强项,也要建立明天的优势。这意味在新加坡拥有潜在优势的领域,精准下注。”
他提醒,不是所有赌注都会成功,但如果固守安全选项,“我们将无法突破或发展新领域”。

中东动荡局势凸显经济韧性重要性
在巩固韧性方面,颜金勇表明,新加坡须保持可信赖、多元的国际枢纽地位,并在货物、资金、数据与能源的流动中,发挥更大的协调与增值作用,建立不可取代的关键地位。
过去三个月,中东动荡揭示了全球供应链和能源的脆弱,委员会因此在最终报告中增设经济韧性这个主题。委员会建议政府除了聚焦粮食等关键物资,也须和其他关键领域合作,了解各领域的供应链风险,并共同制定务实的应对策略。
颜金勇也呼吁企业加快转型,走向国际化,并表明会协助员工提升技能,为转换职业者提供更多支持。他说:“我们的目标,不仅是帮助国人适应变化,更希望大家能在变化中持续进步。 ”
为回应国人对就业前景的关切,委员会提出要更好地扶持职业转型和支持员工。这包括为面对失业风险的员工提供职业转型桥梁,以及通过检讨技能创前程求职援助等计划,加强对专业人士、经理和执行人员的支持。
最终报告里的其余建议,大多是对今年1月发布的中期报告所提策略进行更细致的阐述,包括创造更多且更多元的优质就业机会,以及在优势领域建立全球领导地位。
AI始终是建议报告的核心主题之一。中期报告提出要打造新加坡的AI领导地位,以AI赋能经济,最终建议则进一步提出,把新加坡打造成国际AI方案领导者,并建议新加坡汇集数据基建设施、算力、监管沙盒等关键资源,吸引前沿AI公司和人才到新加坡发展和落实方案。
工作变化节奏加快 震荡愈发频繁
我国政府是于去年8月成立五个委员会检讨经济策略,制定长远经济发展蓝图。政府已在今年2月和3月的财政预算案和国会拨款委员会预算案辩论中,就委员会的中期报告作出一轮回应,包括宣布成立由黄总理领导的全国人工智能理事会。
颜金勇今年1月在中期报告发布会上曾提醒,在当前形势下,我国接下来将较难取得经济增长。他星期三重申这点,也指出下来人们的工作将出现较快的变化,震荡将变得愈发频繁。
但他同时强调,新加坡从有利的位置出发,我国可信赖、与外界相连接,并拥有有效的机构、具竞争力的产业,以及政府、企业和员工之间牢固的伙伴关系。
他说:“经济策略检讨已勾勒我们在新发展阶段中的策略。在一个已改变的世界里,新加坡不能假定昨天的优势自动代表我们明天也能保有一席之地。我们须不断更新我们的经济。”
